Product development
From idea to production-ready.
We work from a complete tech pack, reference garment, specification sheet or sketch — or an existing product that needs a new manufacturing route.
Product development
Every development step is documented — tech pack, BOM, POM chart, lab dips, strike-offs and samples — so what you approve is what gets made.
Nine steps to bulk.
- 01
Concept / tech pack
Sketch, tech pack or reference garment reviewed with BOM and measurement specification.
- 02
Fabric & trim development
Fabric, GSM, lab dips, strike-offs and trims developed to the colour standard.
- 03
Costing
Consumption, yield and processes costed; target FOB and assumptions agreed.
- 04
Prototype
Proto sample made to check construction, fabric and design intent.
- 05
Fit approval
Fit sample measured against POMs; pattern corrected until approved.
- 06
Size set
Graded sizes made and measured to confirm the grade rules.
- 07
PP sample
Pre-production sample in bulk fabric and trims — the reference for production.
- 08
Bulk production
Production runs against the PP sample, with inline quality checks.
- 09
TOP / final approval
Top-of-production sample and final inspection before shipment release.
Development documents
The paperwork that makes garments repeatable.
- Tech pack
- The complete product specification: sketches, measurements, materials, construction and artwork.
- BOM — bill of materials
- Every fabric, trim, label and packing item, with supplier, colour and quantity.
- Measurement specification
- Measurements per size for each point of measurement, with tolerances.
- POM — point of measurement
- Exactly where and how each measurement is taken.
- Construction details
- Seam types, stitch types, SPI and finishing for every operation.
- Trim card
- Physical record of approved trims, labels and accessories.
- Colour standard
- The approved physical or Pantone reference each colour is matched to.
- Lab dip
- Small dyed swatches submitted to approve a colour before bulk dyeing.
- Strike-off
- A test print or embroidery on the actual fabric, approved before bulk.
The sample sequence
Every sample has a job.
- Proto sample
- First make of the design, checking construction and concept.
- Development sample
- Iterations while fabric, trims and details are refined.
- Fit sample
- Checked on a fit model or form against the measurement specification.
- Salesman sample
- Made for selling or showroom use before bulk.
- Size set
- One garment per size to confirm grading.
- PP sample
- Pre-production sample in bulk materials — the production reference.
- TOP sample
- Top of production: pulled from the first bulk output for approval.
- Shipment sample
- Taken from the finished lot as the record of what shipped.
- Gold seal / sealed sample
- The signed-off master sample, where buyer terminology requires it.
Fabric parameters
How we evaluate fabric.
These parameters are considered during costing, sampling, bulk production and quality verification.
- GSM / fabric weight
- Grams per square metre — the core weight specification.
- Fabric width
- Usable width; tube width for circular fabric, open width once slit.
- Stitch length / loop length
- Yarn per loop; drives GSM, stability and hand feel.
- Courses & wales per inch
- Loop density across the length (CPI) and width (WPI).
- Gauge
- Needles per inch on the knitting machine.
- Fabric density
- How tightly the fabric is knitted — affects cover and stability.
- Fabric yield & consumption
- Metres per kg, and fabric needed per garment — key to costing.
- Fabric relaxation
- Rest time before cutting so the fabric settles.
- Shrinkage
- Dimensional change in length and width after washing.
- Spirality, skewness & bowing
- Distortions of the knit that twist seams or bend stripes.
- Stretch & recovery
- How far the fabric extends and how well it returns.
- Hand feel, drape & surface
- Softness, fall and appearance — agreed against a standard.
Measurement & fit control
Fit, measured.
Measurement tolerances are defined according to buyer specification, product category, fabric behaviour and the approved technical package.
Tops — points of measurement
- Chest width
- Body length
- Shoulder width
- Sleeve length
- Sleeve opening
- Armhole
- Bicep
- Neck width
- Front neck drop
- Back neck drop
- Bottom opening
Bottoms — points of measurement
- Waist
- Hip
- Inseam
- Outseam
- Rise
Fit control
- Measurement tolerance
- POM
- Grading
- Pattern correction
- Size set approval
- Measurement audit
Developing a knitwear program?
Send us your brief. We’ll take it from there.
New to a term? Read the knitwear glossaryHelpful to include
- 01Tech pack
- 02Product reference
- 03Fabric composition & GSM
- 04Quantity per style & colour
- 05Colour requirements
- 06Trims & packaging
- 07Certification requirements
- 08Quality standards
- 09Target FOB
- 10Delivery timeline